The Evolution of Brilliance: A Complete History of Lab-Grown Diamonds
From scientific curiosity to the centerpiece of modern sustainable jewelry, the journey of the lab-grown diamond is a story of human ingenuity. Here is how we learned to recreate the Earth’s most precious stone.
The Spark of Innovation (1772 – 1900s)
The fascination with diamond composition began in 1772 when French chemist Antoine-Laurent de Lavoisier (1743–1794) made a startling discovery. Using a massive magnifying glass to focus the sun's rays onto a diamond, he incinerated the gem. Lavoisier noted that despite the diamond disappearing, the total weight of the sealed jar remained unchanged. Furthermore, the gas produced was carbon dioxide—the same gas released when burning charcoal. This pivotal moment proved that diamonds and charcoal are different forms of the same element: carbon.
This discovery spurred scientists to find a way to turn cheap carbon into precious diamonds.
In 1892, French chemist Henri Moissan (1852–1907) theorized that he could crystallize carbon into diamonds under pressure generated by molten iron in an electric arc furnace. Although his experiments reached 6,332°F (3,500°C), they did not produce diamonds. However, Moissan is immortalized for discovering Moissanite (Silicon Carbide). In 1893, he found this rare natural mineral in a meteorite crater in Arizona. Today, lab-created Moissanite is a popular, affordable diamond simulant used in engagement rings and fine jewelry.
It wasn't until the 1950s that the dream of creating a true man-made diamond became reality.
Chemist Henri Moissan
Defining the Terms: What is a Lab-Grown Diamond?
Originally termed "synthetic diamonds," this phrase is still used by scientists. However, to consumers, "synthetic" often implies "fake." Today, the industry uses clearer terms like lab-grown diamonds (LGD), lab-created diamonds, or man-made diamonds.
Crucially, lab-grown diamonds share the exact same crystal structure and chemical formula (pure carbon) as natural diamonds. Gems like Cubic Zirconia (CZ) or Moissanite have different chemical compositions and are classified as simulants, not diamonds.
The Science: HPHT vs. CVD Technologies
There are two primary methods for growing diamonds, both of which are used to create the stunning stones found in modern diamond jewelry.
- High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT)
HPHT diamond growth mimics the Earth's natural crushing force. A tiny diamond seed and a carbon source (usually graphite) are placed in a growth cell with a molten metal flux (like iron or nickel). Under extreme pressure and heat, the carbon dissolves into the flux and migrates to the seed, crystallizing into a rough diamond.
- Result:Within days or weeks, a distinct, cuboctahedral crystal forms, ready for cutting.
Starting with a slice of diamond seed
.
Carbon melted around the seed and forming diamond
Removing carbon from the diamond
- Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD)
CVD diamond growth occurs in a vacuum chamber filled with carbon-rich gas (like methane). Using microwave energy to break down the gas molecules, carbon atoms are deposited layer by layer onto a diamond seed plate.
- Result:This method allows for precise control, producing high-purity Type IIa diamonds (the purest form of diamond).
How to Identify Lab-Grown Diamonds
Because they are chemically identical to mined stones, you cannot distinguish a lab-grown diamond with the naked eye. Even standard diamond testers often identify them as diamonds.
- Inclusions & Patterns:HPHT stones may have tiny metallic flux inclusions (magnetic), while CVD stones might contain non-metallic graphite.
- Fluorescence:Under UV light, natural diamonds often fluoresce blue. HPHT diamonds may glow green or yellow, while CVD diamonds might show distinct growth striations.
- Certification:The safest verification method is a report from a gemological laboratory (like IGI or GIA). Legally, all lab-created diamonds must be disclosed as such.
The Timeline of Innovation: 1950s to Present
1952: William G. Eversole at Union Carbide Corporation successfully synthesizes diamond using early CVD techniques.
1953: Swedish scientists at ASEA produce HPHT diamonds but keep the discovery secret until the 1980s.
1954: The Breakthrough. Dr. Tracy Hall at General Electric (GE) becomes the first to create a reproducible synthetic diamond using his "Belt" press. These were small, industrial-grade grit diamonds, but they changed the world of manufacturing. Hall received a $10 savings bond for his invention that launched a multi-billion dollar industry.
1970: GE creates the first gem-quality HPHT diamonds.
1971: GE sends gem-quality samples (0.26–0.30 carats) to the GIA for analysis.
1982: Japanese company Sumitomo Electric synthesizes a large 1.20-carat single crystal, holding the world record at the time.
2002: Gemesis begins commercial mass production of gem-quality HPHT diamonds for the jewelry sector. De Beers rebrands its industrial division to Element Six.
2005: Researchers at the Carnegie Institution produce high-quality single-crystal CVD diamonds at high speeds.
2012–2015: The Rise of China. Chinese manufacturing, traditionally focused on industrial abrasive diamonds, begins pivoting toward large, gem-quality HPHT stones. Companies in the Henan Province (like Huanghe Whirlwind and Zhengzhou Sino-Crystal) invest heavily in cubic press technology.
2015: New Diamond Technology (NDT) reveals a 10.02-carat Colorless (E) HPHT diamond.
2016: NDT creates the world's largest blue HPHT diamond at 10.07 carats (Emerald cut).
2017: China's Production Explosion. Companies in Zhengzhou, China, are reportedly producing thousands of carats of near-colorless HPHT diamonds daily. While initially varying in quality, the technology improves rapidly, flooding the market with affordable, high-quality small stones (melee) and larger crystals.
2018: De Beers Launches Lightbox. In a historic pivot, natural diamond giant De Beers launches its own lab-grown brand, "Lightbox Jewelry," pricing stones linearly at $800 per carat, signaling mainstream acceptance.
2018: The FTC Ruling. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) revises its jewelry guides, removing the word "natural" from the definition of a diamond. This legally confirms that a diamond is a diamond, regardless of its origin (earth or lab).
The largest faceted yellow HPHT diamond to date (20.22 carats)
The Modern Era: 2019 – Present
The Dominance of "Made in China" By 2020, China firmly established itself as the "World's Factory" for lab-grown diamonds. It is estimated that China produces over 90% of the world's HPHT diamonds and roughly half of the world's total lab-grown supply. The manufacturing hubs in Henan Province utilize massive banks of cubic presses to grow diamonds that are exceptionally white and clean, driving down the cost of diamond engagement rings globally.
Technological Milestones & Market Shift:
- 2021:Pandora, the world's largest jewelry brand by volume, announces it will phase out mined diamonds entirely in favor of lab-grown stones (Pandora Brilliance collection), citing sustainability.
- 2022:Major luxury groups begin to enter the space. LVMH (owner of Tiffany & Co.) invests in an Israeli lab-grown diamond company, and its brand Fred releases a collection featuring blue lab-grown diamonds.
- Size Records Shattered:Labs continue to push boundaries. We now see CVD diamonds exceeding 16 carats and HPHT diamonds surpassing 20 carats with high clarity grades.
- Sustainability Focus:A new wave of "green" diamonds emerges. Brands like VRAI and SkyDiamond focus on carbon-neutral production, using solar energy and carbon captured directly from the atmosphere, appealing to the eco-conscious Gen Z consumer.
